|
Message Title: E39 Fluid Maintenance Guide |
|
Posted by:
kowached on 2003-04-23 at |
Message:
E39 Fluid Maintenance Guide
Engine Oil - Varies
BMWs list of approved synthetics (call them 1-800-831-1117) are Valvoline Synpower, Castrol Syntec, and Mobil One, and
of course the BMW Synthetic Motor Oil from the dealer, all in 5W-30 weights
(5W-40 for warmer climates), but check the owners manual for your model year to
be sure.
If you want to have best synthetic, look to Redline or Amsoil.
I wanted to interrupt this post with
another reader who had the following to say [Malachi]:
|
07-12-2004, 08:08 PM |
|||
|
|||
|
Unfortunately, that is not very good information… |
The high number (40) only
applies at highly elevated oil temps under severe duty.
In this case, the hot oil will still be MUCH thinner than 0W-30 is under cold
start. The only difference between this 0W-40 oil and 0W-30 is it'll
maintain better oil control (not get as thin) at severely elevated oil temps
(240 degrees and higher).
The low number is what impacts cold start wear (the
thing that wears motors out). A "wider" viscosity is generally fine,
so long as the lower viscosity number (0W) is not higher than the one
recommended by BMW.
A anything from 0W-30 to 10W-60 would work, depending
upon climate and duty. In
A 0W-40 oil has a wider operating
range than 5W-30. Generally, the 0W-40 oil contains more viscosity
stabilizers, so it will probably break down quicker and require changeout more often. For a car that sees widely varying
duty (short trip, high speed, cold weather, hot weather), this viscosity is
probably a good choice...assuming you change it more often.
Resume original post:
I think
$8/bottle is too expensive for engine oil because I change mine so often (5000
miles), but it is all that I'll use for long service items like transmissions,
final drive, or bearing grease applications. I exclusively use BMW Synthetic
from the dealer, its less expensive than most synthetics and is made for BMW by
Castrol, it is very similar to Syntec,
but it has a unique additive package (the one specified by BMW for BMW's,
compare Syntec additives to BMW additives at the
Maxima website below), but its only $3.42/bottle (with BMWCCA discount, http://www.bmwcca.org) from my
dealer. Great price, and the only value you'll every find at the dealer, and
you need to get a filter from there anyhow, unless you've mail ordered a stockpile.
540i DIY Oil Change: http://www.540isport.com/DIYoilchangemodem.htm, or http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/tips_pages/oil_change_procedures_2.htm
528i DIY Oil Change: Link?
Independent oil analysis spreadsheet comparing additives packages of different
oils: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?s&threadid=100060
or just download the Excel Spreadsheet here: http://www.mindspring.com/~bill99gxe/Oil Analysis Results.zip
More oil information than you want to read about:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=35289
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=30429
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=33853
Transmission - BMW say's lifetime fluid, I say every 30,000ish miles
(Auto or Manual)
Be sure to remove the fill plug first, just to make sure that you can fill it
before you drain it. With the Manual Trans I suggest using Redline D4-ATF, or
Redline MTL. Amsoil and Royal Purple Syncromax are also popular choices.
With the Auto Trans, I suggest only using the fluid and procedure specified by
BMW. I would change the filter every other time (60k) or every third time
(90k).
Automatic Transmission/Fluid Type: http://home.socal.rr.com/tyrone/SD92-113.pdf
ATF Fluid Top-up Procedure: http://home.socal.rr.com/tyrone/SD92-114.pdf
ZF (Esso LT 71141) Fluid Source: http://www.jie.com/, $30/liter
at the dealer, $14 here.
Brake Fluid - Every 2 years from the "Date of Manufacture"
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years no matter what your mileage because
it is Hygroscopic and absorbs water over time. For fluid, I think that the ATE
Type 200 is the way to go.
"If you have the BMW 4 years or 50,000 miles Full maintenance plan on your
E39 it is an included service and its very common for
them to forget about brake fluid changes, so remind them. Plus, the fluid
change is supposed to happen every two years from the date of manufacture, not
the in-service date. So that puts this service out of synch with all the other
work that has to be done.", brake guru Dave Z.
Brake fluid info: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html
Power Steering Fluid - Varies
PS fluid is just like any other fluid and it breaks down and gets contaminated
with time and needs to be changed as a preventative measure, unless you think
that its a "Super Fluid" and impervious to the elements like no other
fluid that I know of. I can not believe that auto manufacturers continue to
ignore this fluid in their list of regularly scheduled maintenance,
maybe they like being paid to replace PS racks and pumps? I know that bearing
clearances inside modern PS pumps are incredibly tight (a particle of anything
in the right place could burn it up) - plenty of reason to
keep new clean fluid in there. Although, I'm sure the reason that it's
not part of the normal OEM maintenance schedule is the likelihood of sloppy
mechanics introducing some contaminants into the system, or starting the car
with no/low PS fluid, etc... So, the big picture risk of having issues is
probably much lower if they just say to leave it alone. So if you choose to do
this service take extra precautions and make sure that everything is clean
(like you would for a transmission fluid service).
If you are starting with a new car, when performing an oil change service
(every 5000 with synthetic) draw the fluid out of the PS reservoir and
replenish it with new PS Fluid. By continually doing this you should have clean
PS fluid forever and probably will never have to flush the system in this car
because this service was started very early on the car.
If this hasn't been done on your car since day one, you might want to do what I
did with my car. I changed the PS fluid in it by drawing the fluid out of the
reservoir with a simple turkey baster and replacing
it with new fluid (synthetic ATF for this car). I did this once a day for about
a week when I got home from work, and used about a quart and a half of new
fluid total. You could do this all in one day if you wanted to, the key is to
exercise the power steering in between draining the reservoir, and I was in no
rush. I figure that I changed about 95% of the fluid this way, and it still
looks ruby red. Also when performing an oil change service (again every 5000
with synthetic) I draw the fluid out of the PS reservoir and replenish with new
ATF, the old ATF gets added to the waste engine oil and recycled. By doing this
I hope to have ruby red PS fluid forever and probably will not have flush the system again.
Final Drive - Every 30,000ish miles
This is an easy DIY and only requires a 14mm hex head key or hex head socket
and a decent fluid pump to refill the differential case. Again my preferred
fluid is Redline and you'll need 2 quarts/liters. You can use 75W-90 or
75W-90NS in a stock final drive, if you've upgraded to a limited-slip unit,
you'll need the 75W-90NS. As with the transmission, be sure to remove the fill
plug first.
Coolant - Every 4 years
The cooling system capacity is around 12 Liters, for a
50/50 mix of Coolant/Distilled Water you will need 2 gallons (3.8
Liters/Gallon) of each, this will leave you with an extra gallon of 50/50 for
toping up later.
BMW Coolant Product Description:
“This product is exclusively formulated and produced by BMW to protect your
engine all year round.
It protects against freezing, boilover, corrosion and
excessive silicate gel preciptation. This ethylene
glycol based antifreeze contains no nitrites or phosphates, greatly reducing
the possibility of harmful deposit formation. This coolant is superior to off
the shelf brands that contain phosphates. Your cooling system is expensive to
replace so use Genuine BMW Coolant. “
If you are going to spend the $ on the BMW coolant (82.14-1 467 704) consider
using Distilled water ($1/gallon) as the 50% mix suggested by BMW. I just say
that because the label on the BMW coolant touts how it was made with no
impurities like nitrates or phosphates, why take the chance at adding
contaminates back in with city water? I can guarantee you'll at least be adding
chlorine and fluoride into your cooling system with city water. I have no
experience with well water, but I’m guessing it would contain minerals that
would precipitate out into your cooling system.
BMW does not specify the use of distilled water, they also don't specify any
service interval for the power steering fluid, but I change that too. Why? Because both are cheap prevention. It cost me $2 more to use
distilled water when I did the coolant service. $2 is not excessive. When
paying $14 a bottle for the BMW Coolant that claims to be Nitrate and Phosphate
free, if an additional $1 will indeed keep that bottle Nitrate or Phosphate
(and who know what else) free in my cooling system, then I think I can spare
it. If distilled water was expensive, I wouldn't use it, but it is so
inexpensive I couldn't justify not using it.
During normal operation, water is lost from a flooded lead-acid battery as a
result of evaporation and electrolysis into hydrogen and oxygen, which escape
into the atmosphere. I would suggest checking the electrolyte level in your
battery every Spring, and topping up with distilled
water if necessary.
http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html
OTHER NON-FLUID MAINTAINENCE ITEMS:
Engine Drive Belts - Inspection II (Every 60,000 miles)
Spark Plugs - Inspection II (Every 60,000 miles)
OE stock Bosch or NGK, NOT Bosch +4's
There has been more than person that has discovered that their Bosch +4's have
"backed out" or worse yet that some or all of the electrodes were
actually missing from the plug. I myself found Bosch +4's finger tight after
10,000 miles and I know I torqed
them to spec.
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e39/forum.php?postid=3031210
Message Title: Still no fix yet. My valve covers are leaking and
Posted by: Saman on 2003-04-14 at
(posted from: Host: IP: 159.178.203.36)
Message: couple of the spark plugs were drenched in oil. By the way, the
Platinum 4 all 8 of them the tiny electrode had dissapeared
completely, like it had vaporized. Put a set of the Bosch coppers from the
dealership and the car is not missing any more. However, the power is not like
what it used to be. I've gotten a catalytic efficiency a code a couple of
times. I am thinking that, I might have
messed up the cats by dumping fuel in them when the car was missing for some
time. Once I get the valve cover fixed tomorrow. I'm chaning
out the O2 sensors since they are stock and the car has 110K and see what
happens.
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e39/archives/forum.php?postid=223607
Message Title: My bad 540i weird idle solved
Posted by: Mike on 2001-12-14 at
(posted from: Host: wwwgate32.motorola.com IP: 136.182.2.222)
Message: Hi All, just wanted to send this warning out. I had the same weird
idle problem as Ken S. and used some techroline to
get rid of it. But it didn't. I took it to BMW and they said no codes set
customer using BOSCH platinum +4, not recommended. Bosch recommended them when
I put them in but just to see I put the old plugs back in and it doesn't miss a
beat. Thought all of you would like to know not to buy these plugs.
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e39/archives/forum.php?postid=237174
Message Title: Re: My 97 540/6 is same. Sometimes nearly stalls at
Posted by: Mike on 2001-12-19 at
(posted from: Host: wwwgate35.motorola.com IP: 136.182.2.225)
Message: I complained to my dealer, they check the codes, none and told me to
get the Bosch Plat +4 out, no recommeded. Replaced
them with the bosch as F7
LDCR and my smae idle problem is gone. I have a 98
540i 6 speed, hope this helps.
Fuel Filter - Inspection II (Every 60,000 miles)
Raise your car in the air (ramp/jack/whatever) and you'll see a removable panel
behind the left front tire wheel well (under the drivers
feet in the
Later,
Dave
E39 online resources, unofficial Roadfly welcome package, and great Newbie info
(just part of my signature, not implying that you are a Newbie): http://members.roadfly.com/kowached/welcome1.htm
E39 - 1998 540iA Sport (11/97 Production)
E30 - 1989 M3 (44k miles)
1979 Triumph TR7, still have my first car ;-)
Past cars:
E21 - 1980 320i (sold at 130k)
E23 - 1986 735i
I am a BMW Car Club of America member, are you? http://www.bmwcca.org/
